
Unzipped: A Candid Look at Isaac Mizrahi's Fashion Journey

By Anna Wintour


By Anna Wintour
It's challenging to envision prominent designers like Ralph Lauren or Calvin Klein engaging in lighthearted, public antics. The fashion industry often projects an image of seriousness and carefully curated personas. Yet, Isaac Mizrahi stands apart as a designer who boldly embraces his true self, even if it means defying conventional expectations of celebrity. His willingness to reveal his multi-faceted personality, with all its glorious and less-than-flattering hues, is precisely what makes the documentary "Unzipped" such a compelling and delightful experience.
In a landscape of fashion films that often lack genuine emotional depth, "Unzipped," a 73-minute documentary chronicling a year in Mizrahi's life, offers a much-needed sense of joy. Unlike the cynicism of films like "Ready to Wear" or the tedious narrative of "Catwalk," "Unzipped" focuses on a captivating story and an empathetic central figure. These other films, despite featuring fashion icons, often fall short due to their lack of narrative drive or their tendency to portray fashion figures as detached and uninteresting, highlighting a common problem of style over substance.
The documentary immediately draws viewers in by presenting a vulnerable Isaac Mizrahi. We see him in Greenwich Village at dawn, reading a scathing review of his Fall '93 collection in Women's Wear Daily. The review harshly criticizes his design choices, describing his collection as a "mess." This moment of public humiliation could be crushing, but Mizrahi's reaction sets the stage for a story of resilience. The film then shifts its focus, promising to chronicle the creation of his next collection, transforming a moment of despair into a narrative of determination and comeback.
As the narrative progresses, Mizrahi demonstrates his unique creative process. After the initial setback, he appears upbeat, discussing his plans for the Fall '94 collection. He reveals his inspiration often comes from unexpected sources, such as watching "Nanook of the North," a documentary about Eskimos. He playfully expresses a desire to create "fur pants" but acknowledges the industry's potential backlash. This scene showcases his whimsical yet grounded approach, revealing a designer who balances his artistic vision with practical considerations, always with a touch of humor.
Director Douglas Keeve's unlimited access to Mizrahi is a cornerstone of "Unzipped's" authenticity. Their relationship, which began in 1991, allowed Keeve to capture Mizrahi's world with intimate detail, from his personal moments to the bustling energy of his design studio. This deep understanding between filmmaker and subject translates into a documentary that not only portrays Mizrahi accurately but also vividly brings his vibrant universe to life, including the flamboyant personalities that populate the fashion scene, all captured without pretension.
The film features a galaxy of stars, including supermodels like Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, and Linda Evangelista, who delivers a memorable, self-aware performance. Beyond the fashion elite, celebrities like Sandra Bernhard, Liza Minnelli, and Eartha Kitt make appearances, adding to the film's colorful tapestry. However, it is Sarah Mizrahi, Isaac's doting mother, who truly steals the show. Her anecdotes and insights offer a heartwarming glimpse into the designer's upbringing and the formative experiences that shaped his distinctive perspective, grounding the glamour in genuine human connection.
Sarah Mizrahi's stories, from her son's early fascination with her daisy-adorned mules to his youthful mischief, paint a picture of a curious and imaginative child who grew into a charismatic figure. This connection to his past helps explain Isaac Mizrahi's enduring sense of wonder and his ability to blend a childlike enthusiasm with sharp wit. He can shift effortlessly between a sophisticated fashion guru, delivering pronouncements on style, and a playful provocateur, showcasing his multifaceted personality and his unique position in the fashion world.
Despite the challenges and moments of self-doubt, Isaac Mizrahi's Fall '94 collection ultimately proved to be a resounding success. The film culminates in the triumph of his collection, validating his vision and resilience. In a poignant closing scene, Mizrahi is once again at his neighborhood newsstand, but this time, Women's Wear Daily proclaims his collection a hit. This full-circle moment underscores the film's message of perseverance and the ultimate reward of staying true to one's artistic voice, solidifying his status as a true fashion visionary.
About the author

Legendary editor-in-chief of Vogue and global fashion authority.

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